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More than clothes hangers: cultural intermediaries in the field of fashion

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dc.contributor.author Lonergan, Patrick P.
dc.contributor.author Patterson, Maurice
dc.date.accessioned 2018-10-01T09:19:21Z
dc.date.available 2018-10-01T09:19:21Z
dc.date.issued 2018
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/10344/7180
dc.description peer-reviewed en_US
dc.description.abstract Purpose – This paper aims to elucidate how cultural intermediaries shape the subjectivity of other marketplace actors in fashion, thus preserving the illusio underpinning this field of cultural production. Design/methodology/approach – Narrative interviews were conducted with cultural intermediaries in the fashion industry. These were supplemented with non-participant observations, carried out simultaneously during the research process. Interview transcripts and field notes were analysed using a combination of holistic-content and categorical-content analysis. Findings – As the fashion field is constructed around beliefs as to what constitutes value, the empirical data demonstrate how fashion models’ embody the illusio of the field and authenticate the values, meanings and identities inherent in it through aestheticised and rarefied styles of performance. These activities seduce other market actors and engender a willing suspension of disbelief that in turn mobilises affective intensities resulting in perceptions of legitimacy. Research limitations/implications – This research adds greater clarity to what cultural intermediaries do when they mediate between economy and culture. To do this, our research is analysed in terms of the ritual performance, the sensibility of the model, the use of the body and the performative fusion. Practical implications – The paper offers practical implications insofar as it deconstructs the two core ritualistic aspects of the fashion industry which each season yields significant tangible outputs in various forms. The combination of narrative inquiry with observation allows for a better understanding of how these events can be best channelled to mediate the illusio of this cultural field. Originality/value – To date, there has been very little consumer research that explores cultural intermediaries and less still that offers an empirical glimpse of their performance. This research adds greater clarity to these embodied performances that legitimate other market actors’ suspension of disbelief while also demystifying the ambiguity with which cultural intermediaries are discussed in consumer research. en_US
dc.language.iso eng en_US
dc.publisher Emerald en_US
dc.relation.ispartofseries European Journal of Marketing;52 (9/10), pp. 2052-2074
dc.relation.uri https://doi.org/10.1108/EJM-03-2017-0198
dc.rights This article is (c) Emerald Group Publishing and permission has been granted for this version to appear here http://ulir.ul.ie. Emerald does not grant permission for this article to be further copied/distributed or hosted elsewhere without the express permission from Emerald en_US
dc.subject framing en_US
dc.subject Bourdieu en_US
dc.subject framing en_US
dc.subject cultural intermediaries en_US
dc.subject fashion modelling en_US
dc.title More than clothes hangers: cultural intermediaries in the field of fashion en_US
dc.type info:eu-repo/semantics/article en_US
dc.type.supercollection all_ul_research en_US
dc.type.supercollection ul_published_reviewed en_US
dc.identifier.doi 10.1108/EJM-03-2017-0198
dc.rights.accessrights info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess en_US
dc.internal.rssid 2861719


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